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>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. >The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve. >If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. >You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve. >I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. >Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. >The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. >If the Carburetor Solenoid is Good or has been Removed and the Engine will Start and Quit when the Gas is Poured into the Carburetor Throat, then Soak and Clean the Carburetor. >If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Check the Carburetor Solenoid. >The Following is a Simple Way to make Sure the Engine is Getting Gas from the Carburetor to Run. >If you have Changed the Filter and the Gas and the Problem is Still happening, then >From your Description it Sounds like a Carburetor Problem, a Bad Fuel Filter or Bad Gas.
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SOURCE: I have a John Deere Riding lawn mower which starts
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